The History of Jewelry | Mycenae - Ancient Greece

Jewelry of Ancient Greece

Many of the artistic skills that the ancient Greeks or Mycenae possessed were probably inherited from artisans of the Minoan civilization that preceded the Mycenae. The Minoans lived on the islands of Crete and Thera (Santorini), and in Anatolia from 2700 BC to 1600 BC (early Bronze Age), when their culture abruptly ended, possibly brought on by the devastating volcanic eruption of Thera's Stroggilí volcano in the 1620s B.C., and the earthquakes or tsunamis that followed. Within the ruins of Minoan cities, archeologists have found bronze and copper ingots as evidence of advanced smelting techniques.

In the 2nd millennium B.C., Mycenae was one of the major centers of the Greek civilization. The wealth and power of Mycenae was well documented in Homer's Iliad, where King Agamemnon led a Greek army against Troy. The solid gold funeral mask known as the "Mask of Agamemnon" was found at Mycenae by German treasure hunter Heinrich Schliemann, in 1876.

Early Mycenaean Age Greek jewelry consisted of beads shaped like shells and animals. The Greeks started using gold and gems in their jewelry around 1,400 BC (late Bronze Age). By 300 BC, they had mastered the use of colored gemstones such as amethyst, pearls and emeralds in their jewelry, carving and engraving intricate patterns into the gemstones. Ivory carvings, popularized by the Minoans, were also a popular motif of the period.

The Greeks where the first to use cameos, creating them from a cream, brown, and striped pink form of agate stone called Indian Sardonyx. Early Greek jewelry employed simple designs and workmanship which made them distinct from the ornate styles of other cultures (above). As time progressed, their designs, techniques and range of materials grew in complexity (below). The laurel wreath was used as a crown of honor for heroes and scholars (below middle). The laurel leaf was sacred to Apollo, the god of intellect and light.

The ancient Greeks were fond of pendant earrings adorned with the images of doves, or the gods Eros and Nike. Amphora pendants were embellished with gemstones or enamel, hanging from a rosette usually topped by the crown of Isis. Necklaces were either a broad strap chain with dangling fruits or calyxes (above), or a round chain with an animal head or dolphin shaped clasp. Gold wreaths were worn as headdresses decorated with lavish foliage, flowers, acorns, Eros and Nikes. Their rings had bezels set with sealstones or other semi-precious stones.

Jewelry of the Hellenistìc period

The Hellenistic age (330-27 BC), initiated by the conquests of Alexander the Great and increased contacts with the Far-East and Egypt, brought about great changes in taste and styles in architecture, clothing, and jewelry. Many new types of jewelry were introduced, and the use of gold increased dramatically. The use of semi-precious and precious stones, such as amethyst, chalcedony, cornelian, garnet, and rock crystal were employed. Less costly jewelry used glass paste as a substitute for more expensive stones.