Glossary | Jewelry Design & Techniques

Jewelry Technique

• Acid Etching (n, a) Etch (derived from the German word "to corrode or eat") involves immersing the metal in an acid solution while protecting certain parts with a substance called a resist (asphaltum, rosin, wax, etc.) in order to create a pattern on the metal's surface.
• Amulet (n) An object or a talisman to protect against danger and the unknown.
• Anodizing (v) Anodising, or anodizing, is a technique used to dye and/or modify the surface of a metal (usually titanium) using electrolysis. The dye enters the pores in the etched oxide surface of the metal.
• Burnished Finish (a, n) A directional bright finish done by hand with a burnishing tool or "burnisher".
• Cameo (n) A method of stone carving which creates a raised positive relief image, contrasted with intaglio, which has a negative image.
• Chip Carving (a) Also called Kerbschnitt, chip carving involves using a metal-cutting chisel to remove tiny chips from the metal's surface to create a pattern or relief.
• Cloisonné (n) Cloisonné is a multi-step process where filigree is inlaid with enamel to produce a wide variety of color in jewelry.
• Crucible (n) A cup-shaped bowl made of graphite and clay or ceramic in which metals are melted to a liquid state.
• Electroplating (v) Depositing one type of metal onto the surface of another type by using the process of electrolysis or an electro-chemical reaction. Plated coatings are measured in microns.
• Filigree (n) Delicate jewelry or metalwork with wire soldered to a metal background in patterns. Also describes pattern-work made with twisted threads of gold and/or silver. Derived from the Latin words filum thread, and granum, grain.
• Granulation (n) Similar to the shot ball technique, tiny granules or "grains" are fusion-welded to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used for centuries in India and Nepal.
• Hammered Finish (v) Using a cross peen hammer to leave indented hammer marks on the metal's surface.
• Intaglio (n) Intaglio is the opposite of cameo with an incised negative image. Intaglio is used to make engraved seals, where it leaves a raised design on the material being stamped.
• Lamination (v) The bonding of two different metals to create a pattern when cross-sectioned. Damask Steel and Japanese "Mokumé Gane" or "Wood Grain" are two examples of metal lamination to create a pattern.
• Lost wax casting (v) Creating an original artwork from wax, a mold is made of the original sculpture. When the molten metal enters the mold, the wax evaporates leaving the cast metal in its place.
• Metal Inlay (n) Imbedding or inserting of sheet metal or wire into an indentation or groove in the surface of a finished piece of metal.
• Mirror Finish (a, n) A highly reflective surface with no visible abrasion pattern. Created with rouge, muslin, or a flannel buffing wheel.
• Patina (n) Patina is a chemical film formed on the surface of metal through wear, corrosion, or oxidization due to exposure to the elements. A patina is often deliberately added by metalworkers.
• Repoussé (n) French for "to push back," Repoussé is a technique for creating a relief design by pressing or hammering the inside or backside of a metal surface.
• Reticulation (Samorodok) (n) Giving the surface of the metal a rough or wrinkled texture (network or web) that has a naturally formed appearance. The process (aka Samorodok) was popularized by Russian artists such as Fabergé.
• Satin Finish (v) A non-directional or directional finish created with abrasive compounds that produce fine lines across the surface of the metal.
• Shank (n) The portion of a ring that encircles a finger. The shank holds the head (setting), which in turn, holds the gemstone.
• Shot Ball (n) Metal fusion using tiny shot balls fused to the metal's surface to create a pattern or design. A technique used in ancient Etruscan jewelry to add texture to the surface.
• Scoring (a) Using a tool to engrave a groove or furrow into the flat surface of the metal.
• Solder (v) A solder is a fusible metal alloy (gold solder: gold mixed with lower melting metals) with a melting point below 450º C (840º F) and is melted to join two metallic surfaces. Solder is used with flux which removes impurities and oxidised metals from the points of contact.
• Tiffany Mounting (n) Refers to a solitaire mounting with a four or six prong head to hold the diamond. The shank is usually simple and narrow.