The Druzy quartz stone will be set in a "regular" or "plain" bezel (biseau or chamfered) setting that would be a basic "closed" setting for a cabochon cut stone. This type of bezel is also referred to as a "collet".
The bezel is formed by using a pair of nylon-jawed ring forming pliers to shape the thin-gauge bezel strip tightly around the cabochon stone. The bezel for the round stones can be formed using a ring or bezel mandrel.
Using a very fine tipped paintbrush, a small amount of soldering flux is painted onto the joint to prevent oxidation and help the solder flow into the joint. Tiny gold snippets are used as solder.
Michael uses a borax-loaded soldering brush to place a solder snippet inside the pre-heated joint, and the metal is heated up to the point where the solder will flow. Capillary action (sweat soldering) will draw the solder into the joint.
A caliper is used to scribe a line around the bezel that will serve as a cutting guide. Using an adjustable jeweler's saw, the backing is cut away from the bezel. The work is supported in a grooved hardwood "bench-pin".
One last check is made to ensure that the stones fit properly into their bezel settings before moving on to the next phase.
Deburring is accomplished using a half-round hand file. A silicon carbide stone wheel or sanding drum is used to rough finish the backing.
A larger knife-edged stone wheel is used to finish the side wall of the bezel. A small knife-edged grinding wheel is used to clean up the solder joint.
Michael uses a steel burnisher to polish the inner edge of the bezel. The stone is checked for fit one last time before the pickling/cleaning process.
