Beijing | Old China's Hutongs (Hottog)

Beijing's Hutongs

Other than Beijing's big-ticket historical monuments, the Hutongs are the city's last remaining connection with the past. Sadly, as the 2008 Olympics approach, that past is being erased as quickly as possible, but there are remaining pockets of the charming and dilapidated structures that Westerners crave.

The word "Hutong" dates back some 700 years, and is derived from the Mongolian word Hottog ,which translates as well" or "water well." Today's popular meaning would be closer to "back alley" or "back street," featuring narrow lanes that are typically no wider than 9 meters.

Inside what is left of Beijing's Hutong districts you will find narrow alleys and lanes that, with the exception of copious amounts of power lines, look much the same as they did hundreds of years ago. Hutongs are laid out according to the dictates of feng shui, with streets running north-south or east-west.

Hutong alleyways and lanes are created around siheyuan or "courtyards," each surrounded by houses that form a family compound. Alleyways were built between each siheyuan to allow for air circulation and light passage (above left). These siheyuan courtyards face inward to protect against harsh winter winds and spring dust storms.

The Hutongs of Beijing were originally built during the Yuan Dynasty from 1271 to 1368, but most of the remaining Hutongs were constructed during the Ming Dynasty and Qing Dynasty from 1368 to 1911.

Hutong Life Today

Although Beijing's Hutongs are hundreds of years old, they are more than heritage or historical sites, as they remain functioning and vibrant communities. Hutong street-life is punctuated by shopkeepers selling their wares, street vendors selling traditional food, men gathering on a street-corner to play an impromptu game of cards, or the ever-present bicycle, which is still a popular mode of transportation.

Many of the best Hutongs for sightseeing are situated to the north-west of the Forbidden City, near BeiHai Lake, QianHai Lake and HouHai Lake, in the Gulou area. These Hutongs are near the Zhonglou Bell Tower, and Gulou Drum Tower, off of Guloudong Street.

Perhaps the most ancient remaining Hutong in Beijing is the Zhuanta Hutong dating back to the Yuan Dynasty. The Zhuanta or "Brick Pagoda Alley" Hutong is located in the west of Beihai Lake near the Museum of Geology, on Xisi street.

One of the common sights in the Hutongs are hanging bamboo cages, housing pet birds and crickets, an important cultural component within ancient China.

Cricket Culture

The raising of crickets in China dates back nearly two thousand years, and Jing Zhe, or "the waking of the insects" was a climate forecasting tool used in ancient Chinese agriculture. Throughout the Tang and Song Dynasties, crickets were prized both for their singing ability and, later, for their propensity to fight one another.

Cricket breeding and raising is a status symbol in Beijing's hutongs, and the paraphernalia involved in the hobby is quite elaborate. Gambling on cricket fights is still a popular pastime in the hutongs, and wagers can sometimes be substantial.

Jiu dao wan Hutong

The jiu dao wan or Jiu wan, "Nine Turns" or Nine Bends," Hutong is located east of the Gulou Hutongs, near the Lama Temple. It is known for its preserved siheyuan courtyard homes.

Hou-Hai Bar Area

Famous for its local and expatriate nightlife, the Hou-Hai or "back sea" Bar Area is situated around Lake Houhai along the Yangfang Hutong, which is north-west of the Forbidden City. Along Hou-Hai's "Left-Bank," bars line the street with lanterns and colorful outdoor sofas, as well as rooftop seating with overstuffed sofas, to take advantage of the lake views and warm summer evenings.

Most of the bars are concentrated around the Yinding or 'Silver Coin' bridge and narrow canal that connects Houhai Lake to Qianhai Lake. A touristy diversion is to take a rickshaw or "Pedi-Cab" ride through the Hutongs that surround the Hou-Hai area. Locals can be seen enjoying a romantic sunset boat-ride on the lake. 'Tobacco-Pipe' Street is also nearby, with its many shops selling traditional long-stemmed Chinese clay pipes.