Kyoto | The Geisha of Gion's Hanamachi 'Flower Towns'

Gion's 'Ochaya' Geisha Teahouses

The greater Gion area is considered a geisha-district, or 'hanamachi' which translates to "flower-town," with five entertainment sub-districts, or 'gohanamachi.'

The hanamachi, or 'kagai' of Gion are famous for their ryoutei ('entertainment restaurants') and ochaya ('tea houses') where men, or women in contemporary Kyoto can be entertained by the Geisha. The Geisha live in nearby geisha 'family houses' called Geisha-okiya. The popular Ichiriki Ochaya on Shijo-dori street was used in the film Memoirs of a Geisha.

The ochaya teahouse architecture of the Gion district dates back to the Edo period (1600 to 1867). Gion's Machiya, or 'kimono-merchant townhouses' were designed to be very narrow at the street, with a single bamboo gate or Genkan as the only entrance.

Geisha, Geiko and Maiko of Gion

Contrary to popular belief, the term "Geisha" does not refer to a prostitute, but an entertainer. The term "Geisha" literally means "artist," and the Geisha's performance can include story-telling, playing music, and flirtation. Historically, many Geisha were also courtesans, awaiting sponsorship from wealthy suitors.

Although there were 'red-light' districts such as Shimabara which was established in the 1600s, prostitution was outlawed in 1958. In Kyoto, there are are two levels of Geisha; Maiko and Geiko. A Maiko or "dancing child" is an apprentice, while a Geiko or "a woman of art."

The training period for a full-fledged Geisha varies in different parts of Japan, a Maiko in Kyoto may train for several years before achieving the title of a Geiko.

The Geisha's Kimono

The word "Kimono" literally means "clothing," but has come to symbolize the Geisha and their way of life. To distinguish a geisha from a lady-of-the-evening, the geisha would wear the obi or 'bow' at the back of the kimono, while a lady-of-the-evening would wear the obi at the front of the kimono.

A furisode, meaning "swinging sleeves" is a formal style of silk kimono that is traditionally worn by unmarried women, usually for the tea ceremony, or other formal social functions such as a wedding or graduation. A furisode can be a major investment costing between $10,000 and $40,000 US or more.

The furisode is worn with the traditional tall wooden sandals called okobo (aka koppori or pokkuri), held by a single colored strap. A maiko will wear okobo with a red strap when they are starting out (above, left), and will change to a yellow strap signifying that they are finishing their apprenticeship (above, right).

Rare antique Kimonos can be viewed at the Sei Syo Do gallery near Chayama Station, where you can also learn the art of wearing an authentic Japanese Kimono.

Miyako Odori at Gion-Higashi's 'Gion Corner' Kabu-kai Theater

Kyoto's Gion Corner, in Gion-Higashi, is a traditional musical and dance theater (kaburenjo), located in the Yasaka Hall at the southern edge of Gion-Kobu. The Gion Corner Theater also features Gagaku Imperial Court music, Kyogen classical comedy theater, Kyomai dance (odori), and Koto Japanese harp music.

The most famous of the annual festival dances is the Miyako Odori or "Dance of the Old Capital" conducted during the saukura or cherry blossom season in April. The first performance of the Miyako Odori was in 1872, as a promotional effort to revitalize Kyoto's sagging economy after the Japan's capital was moved to Tokyo in 1869.

The Nyokoba in Gion Kobu is a vocational school for Geisha, and many of the teachers there have been designated as 'Living National Treasures' by the Japanese government.

Books on Kyoto's Gion District and the Geisha